Leawood's Room 39 might not be as charming as midtown's — but that doesn't matter once the food arrives

But she was more than placated by a delicate and flaky pan-seared barramundi served with "forbidden rice," a black heirloom rice that, our server explained, was historically reserved for ancient Chinese emperors because it was healthy or an aphrodisiac — or both. Robert had the supple sea scallops — also reportedly an aphrodisiac, though we didn't notice him growing any more animated or excited during the meal. Perhaps the bacon-and-apple-cider reduction toned down the sexy side effects. Beef-loving Bob, meanwhile, approved of his juicy 14-ounce ribeye with roasted garlic mashers.

My second visit was the one with Walt, a man of unfussy tastes who couldn't be lured by the idea of roasted duck breast with blueberry pan sauce or risotto Milanese with balsamic-marinated cipollini onions.

"Don't they have a steak?" he asked.

They did. Another 14-ounce ribeye, this time slathered with pancetta butter. Walt didn't want that much beef, so the staff graciously found a smaller slab, an 11-ounce cut, for him and even sliced it up back in the kitchen. "It's kind of fatty," Walt said after a few bites. I took a taste and thought it was wonderful, but I vastly preferred what turned out to be an extraordinarily good pork loin chop, prepared saltimbocca-style, stuffed with prosciutto, sage and luscious, slow-ripened Grana Padano cheese.

Walt and I shared a wonderful old-fashioned dessert, a hot apple crisp with fat slices of the real forbidden fruit in a bubbling caramel sauce, blanketed with a crispy pastry-crumble topping. While Walt nibbled at his portion, I tried not to stare at the middle-aged couple unabashedly smooching at the next table.

"Maybe this restaurant isn't so uptight after all," I whispered to Walt. And then I noticed a well-dressed senior citizen at another table, giving an evil eye to the lusty lovers.

At the bigger Room 39, there's room for everyone: the good, the bad and the hoity-toity.