If you're in the habit of picking up the humongous, five-dollar-plus Sunday edition of The New York Times, chances are you do in part for the New York Times Magazine, which has some of the best writing and profiles this side of the New Yorker. (For instance, check out this excellent profile of basketball player Shane Battier two weeks ago.)
This Sunday, the magazine will contain a special extra treat for us -- a field report on Justus Drugstore. If you can't wait until then, the article has been online since Wednesday.
Though the tone is a little talk-downish ("Missouri is more about barbecue than ginger-brined pork with apple foam") the overall message is that great local food with great local sources can be done anywhere -- even Smithville, Missouri. Or, as the magazine puts it, that it's possible to "connect the region's tables to its farms."
Jonathan Justus sounds like his usual self. "The satisfaction of building a community around food has been rewarding
spiritually, if not yet financially. 'This restaurant is completely and
totally built on philosophy,' Justus said. 'Cause it sure as fuck isn't about money. It can't be.' Yes, the fuck is bleeped out but the fact that Justus is not afraid to drop F-bombs in front of a NYT reporter is great. (Only one person has ever been allowed to say "fuck" in the paper -- Monica Lewinsky in the Starr Report.)
This marks the second time in less than a month that the Kansas City area food has been featured in The New York Times. Kansas-side residents Jason Day and Aaron Chronister were interviewed for their bacon explosion right before the Super Bowl.