Gyro House (240 East Linwood): Located in a tiny storefront adjacent to the former gas station that was, for the last half of the 20th century, the original Lamar's Doughnuts, Gyro House may be one of the most charmless, uninviting dining venues in the city. Most of the business is carry-out (there are only a few tables in the dining area), and the staff -- usually only one employee taking orders, cooking and generally looking put-upon -- isn't very friendly. "They're generally out of something, too," griped one customer yesterday, who looked aghast when the cook-cashier informed him the shop was out of both hummus and falafel: "Our chickpea order has been held up in Customs," he explained.Customs?
The gyro sandwiches, however, are big -- nearly twice the size of those at Papu's Cafe, and generously loaded with grilled meat (lamb, chicken, kofta), tsatsiki, onion and tomato. It's not inexpensive, but you won't need to eat again for hours.
The Verdict: Papu's wins in a walk. One of our tasters put it best. "If I were hungry and in that area, that's a sandwich I'd remember. Yeah, I'd stop and get that."