Kansas City was apparently selected because of Calvin Trillin's repeated assertions that the institutions of his city were the apex of eating. And while Gold, Sietsma and the article's author Peter Meehan (who co-founded Lucky Peach with Momofuku chef David Chang), are aware that Trillin was often singing the praises of Arthur Bryant's, it is the ribs at Oklahoma Joe's that are tucking into as the tape recorder rolls.
The story, which reads more like a podcast, doesn't define American cuisine (that may not be a realistic goal for a book let alone a few thousand words), so as much as give insight into how American food writers see American cuisine. The only substantive discussion of the eats in Kansas City centers over the tenderness of the ribs. Meehan writes:
I didn't like the ribs at Oklahoma Joe's. Too soft, I thought, and I shared my opinion with Robert and Jonathan. We didn't disagree on the barbecue, but Jonathan took issue with the way I phrased my disappointment. "You looked at this and said, 'Oh they really fucked up,' " he chastised. But no, they didn't. It just isn't our aesthetic. You've never seen such beautiful ribs in your life. And sometimes it's cool to see an aesthetic perfectly realized, even if it isn't your own."
For those interested in the process of food writing and how one comes to be reviewing the plates of food put before him, the story will prove illuminating. The great truths about Kansas City cuisine, those are still up to us to discover.