Thursday, May 16, 2013

D'Bronx corned-beef sandwich is a deli stopgap

Posted By on Thu, May 16, 2013 at 8:00 AM

DBronx has homemade corned beef.
  • D'Bronx has homemade corned beef.
At d'Bronx (3904 Bell), I always walk in intending to get a grinder and I end up hearing myself order a slice of pizza and a chocolate-chip cookie (if they're recently out of the oven) before my brain can catch up with my mouth. But several weeks ago, armed with the mission of compiling a month's worth of sandwiches for this week's cover story, I was determined to walk away with a hoagie in hand. I'd heard good things about the pastrami, but when I asked the woman behind the counter if it was house-made, she told me that it was shipped in. However, the corned beef was made by d'Bronx hands. So, 15 minutes later, I left with a hot corned beef on rye with melted swiss and deli mustard.

The corned beef was lean. The mustard was tangy. But this sandwich ultimately was the equivalent of an innings eater in baseball. You'll be full after lunch and relatively happy while you're eating it, but you won't look back on the experience as the highlight of the week. In the end, you should treat this as a stopgap between deli visits. A chance to satisfy a unique craving in the way that only a hot dog will answer the call when your body demands a hot dog. Without question, call in your order. The phone number is 816-531-0550.

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