As the truck's generator hums and the crowd grows to a dozen people, the flatbreads are getting loaded up: pulled pork, chicken, chorizo. There's a sweet mix of creamy peanut butter, Nutella and banana. Everything but the dessert arepa gets a generous pat of butter and melted muenster cheese on top.
The arepa (ah-RAY-pah) - a white-corn flatbread that is a staple in many South American countries - is roughly the size of a frozen waffle. It is the bread equivalent of tofu (and is gluten-free), adapting to its surroundings and absorbing flavors. The pork option ($6) is tender and filling. Add a mound of finely diced bell peppers for $1, and the sweetness and crunch give the flatbread brightness. The dessert version ($3) is the kind of kids' dish that makes adults melt. The peanut butter adds a smooth, salty balance to the sweetness of the Nutella and the banana. (The menu is at eatarepas.com.)
Instinct tells you to fold it like a soft taco, and the pliant arepa allows it, as long as you take time enough to avoid creating a fault line down the middle of the spongy bread. The message of the truck is clear by its name: Eat Arepas. It's advice you should follow.