Anthony's has a lot going for it. The pleasures of this downtown Italian restaurant range from a karaoke singer whose voice is so good that most customers don't realize it's coming from within the establishment to the all-too-rare spumoni ice cream covered in rum for dessert. And we mustn't forget the small Mona Lisa on the north wall. But none of the many joys of dining at Anthony's can compete with the artichoke appetizer. Artichokes aren't on the menu, but Anthony's has provided them for years, loaded up with garlic and butter in a topping so thick that the leaves themselves get lost. But once they've been successfully retrieved, they prove tender and meaty -- in the most vegetarian sense of the word -- while serving as vessels to transport the delicious sauce from platter to mouth. Another inside secret: When the leaves have all been scraped thin, diners can send the heart back with the server. It will return toasted and breaded to perfection.