There was some head-shaking when the Cosentino family -- which has operated local grocery stores for half a century -- took over the old Meiner's Sunfresh store in Brookside. After all, it was less than two blocks away from the family's own successful Price Chopper. But the new store is aimed at customers who care less about bargains and more about hard-to-find foods. "We stock organic, natural and gourmet items," says store manager Mark Lenz, who also proudly points out that the bakery department has an in-house pastry chef making croissants, New York cheesecake and birthday cakes. And three full-time chefs in the deli prepare three hot gourmet dishes each night (in addition to home-style fare -- fried chicken, tuna-noodle casserole, pot roast). A generous serving of cornbread-stuffed pork loin or almond-crusted grouper looks just like the stuff you'd get in a restaurant, but it's considerably cheaper.