Restaurateur Victor Fontana's life and career have had more acts than Broadway. He opened Fanny's, Kansas City's first combination dining room and disco, in the 1970s and has spent the past three decades trying to top himself. Seven, which Fontana opened in the spring with partner Bill George, is the most winning matchup of location, concept, food and nightclub in the Fontana repertoire. With the help of designer Hal Swanson, he has transformed a nice big corner of the historic Western Union Building into a spacious, sexy and sophisticated place for drinking extravagantly conceived cocktails (created by noted mixologist Susan Avery) or tasting dishes that represent the greatest hits of Fontana's past restaurants. Walls change color behind billowing panels of translucent fabric while diners luxuriate in steak Modiga, lobster Giordano, crackly pizza topped with caramelized onion and sweet Italian sausage, and fork-tender short ribs. If one of the custom-designed cocktails representing the seven deadly sins fails to do you in, the decadent desserts will. That is, if you haven't already overindulged on the bowl of fresh-spun cotton candy.