Monday, May 21, 2012

Chef Charles d'Ablaing wins 2012 Golden Fork Award

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Mon, May 21, 2012 at 12:33 PM

One of Charles dAblaings winning dishes was a deconstructed potato salad.
  • One of Charles d'Ablaing's winning dishes was a "deconstructed potato salad."

Last evening, six local chefs competed for the Golden Fork Award at the Pitch's Taste of Kansas City event, held in the KC Live Block of the Power & Light District. Chef and restaurateur Jasper Mirabile Jr. served as emcee for the Iron Chef-style competition where the competing chefs were given a limited bag of ingredients - in this case, the items included pork, kosher salt, figs, balsamic vinegar, a tiny bit of cream, fingerling potatoes, fresh herbs (saffron, rosemary, cumin and chives), canned artichoke hearts, lentils, capers, and rice - and had 75 minutes to complete a dish to be judged by me, food blogger Emily Farris (FeedMe KC) and culinary instructor and caterer Mary Berg.

Charles d'Ablaing of Chaz on the Plaza, the Raphael Hotel's dining venue, was voted the top contender, with chef Bobby Stearns taking second-place honors and EBT Restaurant's Tate Roberts voted for third place; the other competitors were Beth Barden of Succotash; Michael Foust of the Farmhouse; and last year's winner, Jesse Vega of the Our Lady of Mercy Country Home.

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Magnolia's Contemporary Southern Bistro is good for your soul

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Mon, May 21, 2012 at 9:51 AM

Chef Shanita McAfee has brought her take on Southern cuisine to Cherry Street.
  • Chef Shanita McAfee has brought her take on Southern cuisine to Cherry Street.
The best parts of a picnic - purple potato salad, deviled eggs and lemonade - have come to 2932 Cherry Street. Magnolia's Contemporary Southern Bistro, a modern take on Southern cuisine from caterer Shanita McAfee, opened last month in the former Cafe Seed space.

Back in January, Charles Ferruzza broke the story that Magnolia was going into the empty spot on Cherry Street, and McAfee promised that this wouldn't just be standard Southern fare.

"My dishes are Southern cuisine for the Food Network generation," McAfee told Ferruzza.

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Who satisfies your craving for Chinese?

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Mon, May 21, 2012 at 8:00 AM

Ive been thinking about the scallion pancakes at ABC Cafe since last Wednesday.
  • Angela C. Bond
  • I've been thinking about the scallion pancakes at ABC Cafe since last Wednesday.
Chinese food, like hot dogs, fills a specific void in our stomach. It's a compartment that sends a very specific craving to our brain. By lunch, most of us know if we're having Chinese for dinner. And just as barbecue slides from white tablecloth to greasy sack in this city, Chinese has a huge range in price, preparation and MSG content for Kansas Citians.

When you're caught in the throes of a Chinese craving, who's cooking for you and what's the dish you're eating?

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Friday, May 18, 2012

Five strawberry dishes to herald the coming of strawberry season

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Fri, May 18, 2012 at 10:00 AM

Bloom Baking Co. in the City Market knows what to do with strawberries.
  • Facebook: Bloom Baking Co.
  • Bloom Baking Co. in the City Market knows what to do with strawberries.
With the warmer weather, strawberry season has come a bit sooner. Desserts and salads with fresh strawberries are popping up as a sweet red harbinger of summer. Even though NPR dampened the party a bit with yesterday's piece on why store-bought strawberries can be beautiful but tasteless, there are still plenty of outstanding strawberry dishes on menus. Here are five to help you celebrate the upcoming season.

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How long would you wait to buy food?

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Fri, May 18, 2012 at 9:00 AM

How long would you wait on a doughnut?
  • Babble
  • How long would you wait on a doughnut?
If a line is long enough, you usually have enough time to wonder why you're waiting, feel good about seeing all the happy people leaving, wonder again why you're waiting, curse the people for not leaving sooner, press your nose against the window like a street urchin in an attempt to see what you will be ordering, wish you had crackers in your pocket like the toddler in the stroller in front of you, play with your smartphone, wonder why you ever got in line, and then finally arrive at your table hungry and ready to declare your meal worth the wait.

Eater has the story of the 150-minute wait that folks were willing to endure at Doughnut Vault in Chicago, which has been named the number one doughnut shop in the country by Food & Wine. Werner's gets a pretty good line (but it moves quickly) around noon on Saturdays for their sausages, and it's rare that the Oklahoma Joe's line doesn't extend into the parking lot. What's the longest you'd be willing to wait for food?

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Taste of Kansas City and other weekend possibilities

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Fri, May 18, 2012 at 8:00 AM

Chef Jesse Vega took home the Gold Fork last year for his take on chicken and waffles.
  • Lunch Blog KC
  • Chef Jesse Vega took home the Gold Fork last year for his take on chicken and waffles.
Find your new favorite spot in just one spot. Eat your way through the dishes of more than 20 restaurants at The Pitch's Taste of Kansas City. The eating and drinking extravaganza is Sunday beginning at 5:30 p.m. in the KC Live Block of the Power & Light District. Sample fare from new restaurants like Affare and Open Fire, while remembering why places like the Jerusalem Cafe and Saigon 39 are in your regular rotation. Tallgrass Brewing Co., Boulevard Brewing Co., and Stone Pillar Vineyard and Winery also are on hand.

While you munch on pizza and cupcakes, watch five chefs battle it out in the Gold Fork competition. Tate Roberts (EBT), Bobby Stearns, Beth Barden (Succotash), Michael Foust (the Farmhouse), and Jesse Vega (Our Lady of Mercy Country Home) showcase their knife skills and creativity in the Iron Chef-style challenge held on the KC Live Stage. Emily Farris (of Feed Me KC and Casserole Crazy) and The Pitch restaurant critic Charles Ferruzza are among the judges for the contest. Tickets for this 21-and-older event cost $35 in advance (they can be purchased online) or $40 at the door. VIP tickets gain you an extra half-hour of drinking and dining with a 5 p.m. admission.

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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Popular restaurateur Lorenza "Poco" Guiterrez passes away

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Thu, May 17, 2012 at 5:40 PM

Former Kansas City restaurateur Sean Cummings, best-known for his Grille on Broadway restaurant, called Fat City today to report that his friend and original chef, Lorenza "Poco" Guiterrez, the owner of the beloved Poco's on the Boulevard restaurant at 3063 Southwest Boulevard, passed away after a long illness.

Lorenza Poco Guiterrez, right, with Hope Dillon.
One of Kansas City's most popular restaurant owners, Guiterrez was as loved for her bubbly, warm personality as her cooking skills. In 2007, she turned the old Waid's restaurant on Southwest Boulevard into a gathering place that served both familiar diner dishes - eggs, pancakes, waffles - and expertly prepared Mexican favorites. Before opening her namesake restaurant, Guiterrez was the chef at several Sean Cummings restaurants - The Grille on Broadway, Boca Boca - before taking over the kitchen at Hope Dillon's restaurant in the same location, this time named for her: Poco's Latin American Grill.
"She was a great talent and a wonderful person," Dillon says. "We'll miss her."

"Poco wanted to live the American Dream," Cummings says, "and she did. She opened her own restaurant and ran a food-truck business. She was an amazing woman."

Fat City will report on funeral arrangements when the information becomes available.

Eat flowers — and dirt — at the new Affare

Why flowers and dirt are on the Affare menu.

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Thu, May 17, 2012 at 2:36 PM

Literally a garden on a plate: flowers and dirt.
  • Literally a garden on a plate: flowers and "dirt."

I have eaten more than my share of unappetizing dishes in my day - mostly crow. And dirt? Well, considering my notorious clumsiness, I've dropped God only knows how many doughnuts, hot dogs and deep-fried Twinkies on the ground over the years and still eaten them. And to paraphase Stephen Sondheim: I'm still here.

I don't believe I've ever seen dirt listed as a menu ingredient before I dined at chef-owner Martin Heuser's German bistro, Affare, last night. The small-plate menu includes a salad with an array of fresh greens, asparagus stalks, paper-thin radish slices, flower petals and edible soil. Did I read that correctly?

Yes, according to our server, Josh (formerly of the Brookside Avenues Bistro, like about half of the servers here), who explained that edible soil is not a dirty little secret but a concoction of portobello mushrooms, cocoa, almond oil and chopped almonds. It looks like high-grade mulch and tastes kind of chewy, a little nutty. I wouldn't want to make, you know, a meal of it.

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  • Why flowers and dirt are on the Affare menu.

Meet those mouthy food writers

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Thu, May 17, 2012 at 1:24 PM

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The cast of a local radio program focused on restaurants - yes, including myself - will blab on the art of food writing tonight at 7:30 p.m. at the Uptown Arts Bar at 3611 Broadway. The gabfest will be "presented in a talk-show format." For radio fans of Mary Bloch, Gloria Gale, Chris Becicka and Emily Farris, they're scheduled to be in attendance. There is no cover charge.

Steered wrong: Golden Ox shouldn't have gone for the Wal-Mart 'Steak-Over'

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Thu, May 17, 2012 at 11:09 AM

The Golden Ox and I don't have a long history. I've danced with the restaurant's prime-rib sandwich and enjoyed an unironic Old Fashioned at its bar. But I do have a soft spot for the steer horns above the kitchen, the beaded booths and a dining room that is an unabashed love letter to steak. So my ears perked up when a delightfully generic commercial host informed me that Wal-Mart was doing a ""Steak-Over" (a meat-based makeover?) at the Golden Ox.

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