Tuesday, July 29, 2008

A Trip to Green Dirt Farm

Posted by on Tue, Jul 29, 2008 at 1:00 PM

By CHARLES FERRUZZA

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The last time I wrote about Tony Glamcevski, the former manager of Le Fou Frog restaurant, he was working as a farm hand at Green Dirt Farm, the grass-fed lamb farm in Weston. It was hard to imagine the lean, sloe-eyed, fashionably-dressed Glamcevski milking sheep and tending to them out on a grassy pasture. But on Sunday, I drove out to Green Dirt Farm for an open house celebrating the completion of the farm’s creamery, which is now making cheese from sheep’s milk. There, at the entrance to the facility, was Glamcevski, as brown as a berry and physically fit. He’s still hoping to open his own organic restaurant next year, but in the meantime, he’s enjoying his new career as a shepherd.

Green Dirt Farm, owned by Jacquie Smith and Sarah Hoffman, boasts 200 ewes, four rams and an ever-changing number of lambs. Those baby sheep don’t get the chance to get too old on a lamb farm, after all. As if to make that point, a giant was grill set up in front of the milking barn where succulent lamb meat was cooking. I tasted the meat and it was lean, moist and delicious. I tried not to think of a fluffy, sweet baby lamb.

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Green Dirt Farm doesn’t sell its lamb wholesale, so you won’t find it in area stores or restaurants. Currently, the owners sell fresh, frozen lamb at the Saturday outdoor markets in Brookside and Parkville.

I tasted several samples of the milky soft sheep’s cheese (including a terrific version flavored with lovage) on crostini. There were various other foods on the buffet table, and I snagged a couple of pieces of ginger-flavored artisinal chocolate made by Kate Robertus for her company, Midnight Confections. But I was too damn hot to eat much, and my two city-slicker friends were griping about the heat, the bugs and the entertainment (local poet Tim Pettet performing his work accompanied by two musicians). So we drove off, not too dirty but definitely sweaty.

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