Friday, December 26, 2008

A refresher on sparkling wine

Posted by Owen Morris on Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 10:20 AM

champagne_thumb_200x276.jpg
For the New Year all you need to remember is this:

Elvis Belts Exciting Songs.

That four-word mnemonic device I just created will help you remember the first and most important step of picking out a sparkling wine, how sweet it is. There's seven classifications on sparkling wine but the four common ones from dry to sweet are:

Extra-Brut (Elvis): Very little sugar, not enough to make it taste sweet in the slightest.
Brut (Belts): Technically supposed to taste sugarless but usually the sugar is slightly noticeable. Think pop mixed with three-quarters club soda.
Extra-Dry (Exciting): The middle of the pack and the most crowd-pleasing. You'll definitely notice the sugar but shouldn't be overwhelmed by it.
Sec (Songs): Definitely on the sweet side, this is going to taste like a bubbly, alcoholic fountain drink.

To make it even more fool-proof, just remember brut means dry and anything starting with the letter "D" is sweet. (The two sweetest classifications are semi-dec and doux.)

Here's three more steps for picking a good sparkling wine cheaply.

Tip one: Look for the words Methode Champenoise.

That means it's fermented in the bottle, which is the way they do it in Champagne. It renders a superior and complex product.

The other way to make sparkling wines is in big vats with carbonation pumped in. This is the way that Andre and Cook's and nearly all sparklings under $10 are made. It's easy, cheap but artificial. It's given the misleading classy name of Charmat-Method.

Tip two: Champagne does not mean made in France.

Due to some legal documents America never signed, sparkling wines made here can call themselves champagne. Cheap American stuff like Andre's and Cook's call themselves champagne. Usually, the bottle will say California champagne but sometimes it just says champagne. If the bottle says cava that means it was made in Spain.

Titles like champagne, cava and sparkling wine are overrated. There's some great sparkling wines and shitty champagnes. More than the title on the front of the bottle, look at the label on the back. Like with good wines, good sparklings are individually numbered. Look for that small number on the back (sometimes it's a separate sticker) saying 003450 or a number like that. 

Tip three: After one bottle, it all tastes the same.

To paraphrase Doug Frost, "drink what you like." Yes, methode champenoise, batch-labeled champagnes are very good but they can get very expensive quick. The cheap stuff like aforementioned Andre's and Cook's may be charmat-method but it's purposely flavored to be crowd-pleasers. Often, these crowd pleasers taste better than expensive stuff. From the Freakanomics blog:

Not until I read Goldstein's book [The Wine Trials] did I realize just how weak the

correlation was in blind tastings between expert evaluations and price

in experimental settings...It turns out that the story with respect to cheap wine is even more

true for champagne. I've never tasted a $12 bottle of champagne that I

didn't enjoy immensely. It turns out I am not alone. In blind tests,

Domaine Ste. Michelle Cuvee Brut, a $12 sparkling wine from Washington,

is preferred nearly two to one to $150 Dom Perignon if you strip away

the labels.

On my personal list for this year is a bottle of Roederer's Estate which goes for around $20 and tastes just as good as anything by Moet & Chandon and a couple of bottles of Andre's because it tastes much better than a $5 bottle of sparkling wine should taste. (The $5 part helps as well.


-- Owen Morris

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

good is my pleasure to comment on this page is not as much wine and I like to learn more them the opportunity thank you very much

report   
Posted by Burgundy Wine14 on April 7, 2009 at 3:35 PM

Just a quick note of correction;
1. Sweeter style sparkling wines, especially from Champagne, are called : demi-sec and doux, not semi-dec and doux.
2. The only wine entitled to the name "Champagne" is that which comes from the appellation of same name in France. True, American producers with lots of money invested in their brands still insist upon, and get away with using a phrase like "American" champagne, but it it doesn't make their wines more legitimate!
Most top AMerican sparkling wine producers have ceased using the above phrase and say "sparkling wine". Of course, it's the bottle's contents that matter, not the label, but to equate the quality of something like Andre with even sparkling wine such as Dom Ste Michelle or Mumm Napa is to do a disservice to the producers of those fine products.
American producers should not mislead consumers into believing that their cheap mass-fermented wines are "champagne"; they are not! But they can represent good value, and I for one always say there's never a bad time to drink fizz!
Joel Butler MW

report   
Posted by Joel Butler MW on December 30, 2008 at 10:12 PM
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

Latest in Fat City

Slideshows

All contents ©2012 Kansas City Pitch LLC
All rights reserved. No part of this service may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of Kansas City Pitch LLC,
except that an individual may download and/or forward articles via email to a reasonable number of recipients for personal, non-commercial purposes.
Website powered by Foundation