Mental Floss has a list of the stories behind 11 famous cocktails. Mostly, they're named after notorious people (as in the negroni, after Count Camillo Negroni) or famous clubs like the Manhattan. But Tom Collins is different and reading the list reminded me of its hilarious history.
The name comes from a popular prank. Over the holidays I read the book Imbibe! by David Wondrich, which had the complete story of how Tom Collins came to be. First, it helps to know that before the Tom Collins became a Tom
Collins, it was called a John Collins after a London bartender. From
there the jump was natural when, in 1874:
... an annoying bit of Tom Foolery began crisscrossing thecountry. It couldn't be simpler: turn to the guy next to you at the bar
an say that you heard Tom Collins was going around badmouthing him, and
that you just say said Mr. Collins around the corner, down the street,
across town, wherever. It sounds moronic, but judging from the
newspaper accounts of the hijinx that ensued -- only a few of them
fatal -- it worked. At any rate for people who had never heard of
Limmer's [the bar where John Collins worked], "Tom Collins" must have made
more sense as a drink name.
The book goes on to say that the Tom Collins was traditionally made with Old Tom gin, which also helped popularize the name Tom over John.
Later, Wondrich finds a Tom Collins (John Collins) recipe from 1869:
Teaspoonful of powdered sugar
the juice of half a lemon
a wine glass (5 oz) of Old Tom Gin
A bottle (6 oz) of plain soda
Shake or stir with ice. Add a slice of lemon peel to finish.
The only problem with the recipe is that Old Tom gin is no longer made. As a substitute you can use a dry London gin (Wondrich recommends Tanqueray) and slightly sweeten it with a half-ounce of gum (or gomme) syrup per bottle. Since gum syrup is not sold in America either, you'll either have to make your own or substitute simple syrup.
After you've got the ingredients and made the drink, serve it to a friend and then quietly mention that there was a Tom Collins talking smack about them.
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Just read a review that was not favorable as to Boord's Old Tom. Since I consider the source reliable, I'll take it on faith that this is poor quality.
Owen: There are a number of Old Tom gins being produced these days. In the US, there are only two available I know of (so far): Haymans Old Tom and Boords Old Tom (latter made in US). Haymans has more of a reputation. Several brands are available in Europe and can be shipped to the US, but at a cost. Most among these per reputation is Both's (part of the Secred Treasures line from Haromex in Germany)and being more on the floral rather than juniper side. Haven't tried these yet but offer information you can research on the web.
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