Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Let's get picky about plates, OK?

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 2:22 PM

square_plate.jpg
My friend Lorraine isn't just any fussy restaurant customer. Because she worked in the hospitality business for so many years, she's willing to forgive many little (and not-so-little) eccentricities and goofs in the culinary world. But even the laid-back Miss L. can lose her cool at the latest insult to common sense: designer plates. She detests the new trend for rectangular plates.

I prefer rectangles to the triangle-shaped plates I've been seeing lately. But most people know my theory about plates: as long as they're not paper, styrofoam or ridiculously chipped, I'll eat off of just about anything. And have!


As a former server and teenaged restaurant dishwasher (and a damn

good one, I might add), I have first-hand experience in the folly of

using restaurant china that's too expensive or too awkward to handle.

Those costly plates break more often than the cheap stuff, folks, and

not just in the bus tubs and the good ol' Hobart dishwashing machine. I

never worked in a restaurant where someone -- sometimes even a customer

-- didn't drop a plate, or a whole tray of them, during a busy weekend

shift.

Lorraine's bigger gripe, and one which I share completely, is the

idiotic use of tiny but fashionable plates that are too small to hold

the food put on them. Like itsy-bitsy salad plates. Lorraine was

recently dining at the Blue Grotto

in Brookside. "I could not eat my Caesar salad because any time I would

stab a piece of lettuce with my fork, half of the greens on the plate

would slide off onto the table," she writes. "My dining companion had

the same problem. A few nights later, I was dining at a restaurant in

Westport and had the same problem. What's up with this trend?"

click to enlarge triangle_plates.jpg

I would hate to think that in a difficult economy, restaurant owners

were trying to give the impression of being generous by serving

a standard portion on a smaller plate. But years ago, in a much better

economic climate, I worked for a rapscallion restaurant owner who did

just that. He bought, for a song, a case of off-sized plates that were

too big to be bread plates or dessert plates and too small to be salad

plates. "Use 'em as salad plates," he told us. "It'll make us look like

we're treating the customers right."

That's not what people thought, but he didn't care. When his

restaurant went out of business, he sold the plates to another

restaurateur who did use them as bread plates. But he served big rolls,

so it worked. 
 

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