Tuesday, October 20, 2009

The skinny on the world of cheesecakes

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 9:44 AM

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​As a boy growing up on the East Coast, there were certain inalienable truths. Among them was that the only place to get bagels and cheesecakes done the right way was New York City.

And to this day, cheesecake remains a food that, outside of Manhattan, isn't the same. Whether it's a question of water or baking practices, or simply because it's a food that can't be replicated because it has already been fixed in my mind, the ideal of a slice of New York City cheesecake holds its value.

It is the same axiom as a Philly cheesesteak. Outside of Philadelphia, a given sandwich may be a cheesesteak or some unholy combination of cheddar and chopped steak, but it isn't (and shouldn't be called) a Philly cheesesteak. Take a cheesecake out of New York and you've got an entirely different dessert. 

New York-style cheesecakes are typically made with cream cheese as opposed to ricotta cheese. They are dense but smooth, with the same creaminess as the traditional bagel topping. You should feel full after a few bites, yet feel compelled to finish the slice if it's made right.

Serious Eats sat down with 14 cheesecakes in a head-to-head battle from all of the boroughs of New York and ranked everything from Sara Lee to Junior's in Brooklyn. No fruit toppings, no flavors, no fancy crusts. This was about which cheesecake could stand on its own flavor. The winner was Two Little Red Hens -- a Manhattan bakery on the Upper East Side -- known as much for its cupcakes as for its cheesecake.

Enjoying New York cheesecake in this day and age no longer requires you to venture to the city. If you have a serious sweet tooth and prefer creamier cake, S&S Cheesecake in the Bronx ships worldwide. Those who like a denser cake that requires a strong cup of coffee or a tall glass of milk alongside it should order Junior's -- it's the cake I've used to celebrate my birthday for the past decade.  

[Image via Flickr: roboppy]

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