Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Welcoming sugar back to soda

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 12:06 PM

click to enlarge GO8F1963a.jpg

Soda drinkers might be the biggest beneficiaries of the move back to "natural" ingredients.

Pepsi and Mountain Dew Throwback is again on shelves and Mexican Coca-Cola is being sold by the case at Costco. All of these use sugar rather than high fructose corn syrup.

And although it's been fun to point to Mexicoke enthusiasts as snobs since the product appeared on Costco shelves in 2007, try a simple Coke and Pepsi blind taste test. Those few regular Coke and Pepsi drinkers out there will discover that the sugar-based drinks are mellower and have a more consistent sweetness. 

I'll admit the cult of Mexican Coke is a bit out of control. For example, it was the subject of a Consumed column in The New York Times last October. In looking at how high fructose corn syrup is coming to be demonized in America, Rob Walker sought to understand the devotion to the imported cola:

There's a political angle (corn subsidies), an authenticity angle (it's processed, very pervasive and just sounds industrial) and a paranoid angle (the entertaining conspiracy theory that the 1985 New Coke fiasco was an intentional failure, orchestrated to distract consumers from an

ingredient switch in Coke Classic). The upshot is the curious celebration of sugar as natural and desirable.

And yet, those in the two-liter-a-day camp can

often taste the difference between bottles and cans. I had a college

friend with a mild addiction to Diet Coke, who could identify where a

two-liter was bottled simply by taste. Is it so far-fetched to think

that those who drink voluminous amounts of a single kind of soda could

develop a more sophisticated soda palate?

Mountain Dew Throwback may be the exception -- the neon yellow drink that contains trace amounts of vegetable oil was perhaps never meant to be more natural. I didn't know that highly artificial substances could require balance, but without high fructose corn syrup, Mountain Dew tastes terribly out of whack.

But in this case, I'm not just drinking the Kool-Aid, I'm buying into the Mexican Coke -- by the case.

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@BethW
I got it at my local food store, in this case, Giant Foods. I think Wal Mart Super Centers may carry it too.

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Posted by Tom on January 8, 2010 at 11:14 AM

Where can you find Dr Pepper Heritage in any quantity? So far I've only heard of and seen it sold in individual bottles. Please help feed my sugar Dr Pepper craving...

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Posted by BethW on January 7, 2010 at 10:06 AM

Sam's Club has Mexican Coke, too.

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Posted by Anonymous on January 6, 2010 at 6:15 PM

Watch those labels on the Mexi Coke. PIcked up a few at P Chopper in Merriam and the ingredienst said "Sugar and/or HF Corn Syrup". Me thinks this Mexican revolution is hitting Coke's domestic sales and they are either intentionally confusing us w/ the label or the Mexican Bottlers are getting short on regular sugar.

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Posted by XXX on January 6, 2010 at 11:27 AM
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