Tuesday, February 16, 2010

New Boulevard-inspired menu items at 12 Baltimore

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 1:00 PM

click to enlarge The new Bully Porter wings at 12 Baltimore are enormous.
  • The new Bully Porter wings at 12 Baltimore are enormous.

New on the menu at 12 Baltimore: large portions and new items inspired by Boulevard beer.

"You can't go away hungry," jokes Chef Jason Bowers. "If you do then there's a problem."

After a year and eight months at the downtown restaurant in the Hotel Phillips, Bowers -- formerly of Nick and Jakes, Cafe Trocadero and Dean & Deluca -- thinks the menu is a reflection of his approach in the kitchen. He's combining the slow-and-low cooking traditions of his upbringing in Kirksville, Missouri, with the refined skills he has showcased for the past 11 years in Kansas City. 

"I've been hearing those happy grunts and groans -- which lets me know that people are enjoying the food," says Bowers.

click to enlarge The Pale Ale Battered Fried Mozzarella -- one of the new menu items at 12 Baltimore.
  • The Pale Ale Battered Fried Mozzarella -- one of the new menu items at 12 Baltimore.
Among the new editions: Bully! Porter Wings ($11) with a trio of dipping sauces -- ranch, hot sauce (you'll pick up the base of Frank's RedHot and red wine vinegar), and blue cheese that are all made from scratch. Bowers soaks the enormous full wings overnight in the Bully! Porter before frying them, trapping the beer in the skin. When you take a bite, it's released in the juices.

The wings are among several new menu items Bowers has developed to celebrate the restaurant's partnership with Boulevard Brewery. 12 Baltimore is also going to start serving beer flights with tasting glasses for each of the Boulevard brews on tap. 

The starters menu now features Wheat-battered O-Rings ($8) served with remoulade sauce and Pale Ale Batter Fried Mozzarella ($10) with a housemade marinara. The mozzarella is hand pulled and dipped in flour before being coated with Panko to give it a texture reminiscent of tempura.

The Pale Ale Battered Fried Mozzarella -- one of the new menu items at 12 Baltimore.
  • The Pale Ale Battered Fried Mozzarella -- one of the new menu items at 12 Baltimore.

The new 12B Cuban at 12 Baltimore.
  • The new 12B Cuban at 12 Baltimore.
And joining the 12B Burger is the 12B Cuban ($12) -- roast pork, ham, pickle, dijon mustard, crispy potato and pepper jack cheese on a ciabatta hoagie.

"I've been playing around with pork and this is one of the dishes that came out of that," says Bowers. 

click to enlarge 12baltimore_b_.JPG
To the list of entrees, he's also added Shrimp Tacos ($13, jalapeno, shrimp, lettuce, and pepper jack cheese in flour tortillas with homemade pico de gallo). That's in addition to 12 Baltimore's extensive list of seafood offerings such as fish and chips, a shrimp Po Boy sandwich, Atlantic salmon in a Port Ginger Glaze and the fresh catch of the day.

"Food doesn't have to be complicated," Bowers says. "It just has to be comfortable."

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I am happy to hear that a restaurant like 12 Baltimore is starting to acknowledge how well food and beer go together. The experience of getting to eat at places like this will only get better with expanded beer lists and chefs creating menus that highlight beers ability to enhance a meal.

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Posted by Dave on 02/16/2010 at 1:33 PM
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