Thursday, February 18, 2010

Battle of the dishes: d'Bronx versus Pizza 51 slices

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 12:00 PM

click to enlarge A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.
  • A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.

While it's not that common to see people walking around the busy streets of Kansas City eating a slice of pizza, a few shops that have carved out a niche dishing up hot slices. 

This battle pits d'Bronx -- the New York style shop known for its thin crust pizza -- and just to mix things up, we'll order from the Overland Park location rather than the original shop on 39th Street. Over in the South Plaza area, it's Pizza 51 -- with the oversized wedges designed to feed the growing college students at nearby UMKC. 

These slices will be judged on portability, roof-of-the-mouth-burning ability, crispiness and satisfaction of hunger. To avoid being unduly influenced by toppings, it's a straight cheese versus cheese match-up. Because like vanilla cupcakes, if you can make a memorable cheese slice, then you can make good pizza.

A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.
  • A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.
 

A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.
  • A slice fresh from the pizza oven at d'Bronx.

D'Bronx ($3.07):
The weight of the cheese gives a bit of flop to this thin-crust slice. This is clearly a cheese slice, not a sauce slice. The cheese pulls off in molten strings -- meaning the roof of your mouth will sting if your first bite is too large. When you get down to the sauce, it is a bit peppery, a good balance to the sweetness of the tomatoes.

The crust has a slightly yeasty quality is slightly blackened on the bottom, which is a good omen when it comes to pizza. Overall, the slice has the taste and properties of a calzone.

pizza51_b_.JPG
Pizza 51 ($3.19).
This slice is so large, it can't truly fit in the to-go box. The tip of the slice (top right) has to be placed perpendicular to the rest of the slice, which is cut in the same fashion as St. Louis style pizza. At first glance this feels like you're getting a personal pizza rather than a slice. While this is not great for walking, the cuts make each mini-slice the perfect size to inhale while driving.

This is a soft slice -- soft enough that it didn't bother me to eat it an hour after getting a root canal. But the crusts are slightly darkened, meaning the closer you get to the edge, the more crunch you get. The change in textures is nice -- it feels like the slice is rewarding you for working hard to finish it. The sauce and cheese are balanced and grow on you as you work you way across the massive triangle. 

Results:
D'Bronx gains the edge for portability -- assuming you're walking -- and the ability to sear the roof of your mouth. Pizza 51 gets the nod for a crispier crust and the ability to satisfy John Goodman. Hit up d'Bronx if you need one, good slice; but head to Pizza 51 if you really feel like sitting down and eating some pizza.   

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Comments (6)

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Not only is that last sentence poorly constructed, it's a weak ending to an already weak article. I agree with Chen Fei, the wishy-washy tone of this "review" reminds me of something a child would write for the elementary school paper.

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Posted by Dave Jarvis on February 22, 2010 at 9:36 AM

Art of Pizza downtown is the best in KC, IMO.

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Posted by Smart Alex on February 21, 2010 at 2:22 PM

Joes Pizza - tue /thur 1.50 slices!


and Antonio's use to be amazing on main I wonder where they went???

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Posted by pizzalover on February 20, 2010 at 1:18 AM

Waldo Pizza > all

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Posted by Abe on February 18, 2010 at 2:57 PM

I hate it when critics are too spineless to give a definitive answer on which one they like better.

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Posted by Chen Fei on February 18, 2010 at 1:09 PM

Walking? You don't see that too often in OP, that's for sure

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Posted by jchg on February 18, 2010 at 11:59 AM
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