Thursday, April 1, 2010

Battle of the dishes: chocolate Easter bunnies

Posted by on Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 11:00 AM

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The chocolate bunny debate used to be simple at Easter time. I either bought the large molded chocolate bunny or the small, marshmallow-filled variety. It was either cheap-o chocolate or richer, individually crafted bunnies wrapped in cellophane. Those were the basic options.

Today, the chocolate bunny aisle has exploded (along with egg and chick options). Each year, there are more varieties of bunny, available in ever larger packs. This battle represents a collection of bunnies chosen to represent nearly every segment of the Easter candy aisle. Some are scary. Some are "fudgie" (their word, not mine). And some are simply amorphous blobs of chocolate.

To tackle the 20 options available in the candy aisle, I divided the bunnies into three categories: chocolate; filled; and wild cards that could end badly or lead us to a new Easter celebration. Those bunnies would be judged on appearance and taste. Here are the results of eating 10 bunnies.

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The Chocolate Bunnies

Hershey's Milk Chocolate Bunny. A bunny with big blank eyes, wearing a molded bow tie, seems too formal to eat, but kudos to Hershey's for accurately capturing the bunny's likeness on the packaging. This is simply a Hershey's kiss rebranded as a bunny.

Baby Binks -- The R.M. Palmer Company. The yellow sugar eyes make this bunny slightly demonic yet classic (a bunny version of the Easter Island statues). It's a hollow bunny that tastes of the Easter chocolate I remember from childhood. It's not waxy, just slightly gritty.

Dove Bunny 3 Pack. What is meant to be a bunny looking skyward is really only a bunny in the vaguest sense of the word. This is milky, silky chocolate -- a Dove bar with the finish of hot cocoa.    

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The Filled Bunnies

Melster Bunny Marshmallow Treat. Slightly formless, the Melster candy looks closer to a Pillsbury Doughboy covered in chocolate than a bunny. This one's pretty gross -- waxy chocolate that features marshmallow with no give whatsoever.

Brach's Chocolate Marshmallow Bunny. The other 10-pack entrant, this is a chocolate bowling pin with slight indentations like a bunny frozen in carbonite. The thin chocolate gives way quickly to chewy marshmallow, which is the lasting flavor.

Whipped Creme Bunny -- Georgia Nut Company. The packaging suggests an unshaven bunny in a circus vest, the actual candy is a featureless lump of chocolate that resembles no animal whatsoever. It's so sweet, I can barely stand it. With chocolate and white cream, it tastes like a French silk pie covered in chocolate.

Russell Stover Chocolate Marshmallow Rabbit. The bunny pictured on the package is the closest to a real rabbit, while the chocolate bunny more closely resembles a turnip with two vaguely dirty circles beneath it. It's like a more filling Milky Way with a slight coffee taste in the chocolate.   

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The Wild Card Bunnies

Double Crisp -- R.M. Palmer Co. Towering over the other entries in this category, this bunny has the same pleasing expression and overblown features of the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man. A sweeter version of a Nestle Crunch, it's way too much bunny for even two people to finish.

Fudgie Rabbit -- Georgia Nut Company. The chocolate bunny looks more like a frog or maybe South Park's Cartman with horns. With a taste like chocolate covered fudge, it's a dense bomb of candy.  

Hershey's Cookies 'n' Creme Bunny. The white bunny is the same mold as the chocolate bunny from the first group, only speckled with black buckshot in its back. The first bite is crunchy white chocolate. The second lets me know that this is a white, fudge-covered Oreo in bunny form.  

Nobody ever says "I really want a chocolate bunny." Chocolate bunnnies are just what you take a bite of before giving them to your mom or dad to finish. But Easter baskets don't seem complete without them. And because marshmallow and chocolate make for a classic combination, the easy winner here is the Russell Stover's Chocolate Marshmallow Rabbit.

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