Monday, April 12, 2010

Leavenworth is loaded with culinary history

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 2:00 PM

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The real Harvey House
At last week's lecture by Stephen Fried, author of the new biography of legendary restaurateur Fred Harvey, I was reminded of the old Harvey mansion at 624 Olive Street in Leavenworth. Fred Harvey bought the striking stone building in 1883 and although several of his children lived in Kansas City, where the Fred Harvey Company was headquartered, Fred remained in Leavenworth until his death. The Harvey family continued to own the home until 1943, when they donated the property to the Cushing Hospital for use as a dormitory; it was later given to the Leavenworth Board of Education.

I was inspired to hop in the car for a day trip to Leavenworth, where I found the house empty and in need of expensive renovations. For many years, Leavenworth city officials have promised that the home will one day be opened as the Fred Harvey National Museum; one Leavenworth Web site refers to the museum as a "coming attraction."

A Leavenworth resident told me, however, that there has been squabbling over what to do with the Harvey mansion, and how to pay for it, for years.

Will it ever be opened as a museum?

"Don't hold your breath," he said.

Another historic culinary attraction in Leavenworth that remains very much in business is the 76-year-old Nu Way Drive-In at 510 Shawnee Street downtown. The Nu Way was once a very big deal and Kansas City had several locations of the popular drive-in that served loose-meat sandwiches.

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The Leavenworth venue, located in a squat yellow building that also houses Carole's Hair Salon, is the last remaining Nu Way in the area (six are still operating in Wichita). This drive-in does have a drive-through window, but most customers actually go inside to sit at one of the booths or at the counter.

The inside is utterly charmless, with walls panelled like a 1960s rec room. But they're hung with lots of interesting vintage photographs of Leavenworth in its heyday -- including the Nu Way as it looked before becoming a combination diner and beauty parlor. Several young servers work there; they not only wait on tables, but make the sandwiches too. A fry cook in the back handles all the home fries, onion rings, breaded mushrooms and fried green beans. For patrons who don't want a Nu Way burger, there are fried pork tenderloins, fish-and-chips and corn dogs.

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Nu Way or the highway, baby
As far as loose-meat sandwiches go, the Nu Way burger -- served with mustard, pickle and onion on a small, tasteless bun -- has its fans. But I think it's one of the most boring loose-meat burgers ever. The Zip burger and the Whiz Burgers at the Mugs Up Root Beer Drive-In at 700 E. 23rd Street in Independence are vastly superior: the loose-meat is cooked in a tangy, addictive sauce. And it's a lot closer to Kansas City!

But the Leavenworth Nu Way does serve made-from-scratch soups daily, blends up a terrific milkshake (in strawberry, chocolate, vanilla and peanut butter) and serves cheesecake for dessert.

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Fine work, Mr. Ferruzza ! I have lived in the Kansas City area for 20 years and was unfamiliar with these attractions in Leavenworth. I plan to schedule a day trip to check them out, THANKS to you!

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Posted by Alan Vaile1 on 04/13/2010 at 8:18 AM
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