Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Happy Hour Hunt: Swagger Fine Spirits and Food

Posted by on Wed, May 19, 2010 at 2:00 PM

The chili cheese fries are an indulgence that is worth it.
  • The chili cheese fries are an indulgence that is worth it.

The Place: Swagger Fine Spirits and Food, 8431 Wornall Road, 816-361-4388.  

The Hours: Monday to Saturday, 3 to 7 p.m. 

The Vibe: Tin signs hang over the bar that runs along the right-hand side of Swagger. At 5 p.m., only a single barstool was empty and the rest were filled by men, who enjoyed teasing each other and the bar staff that this bar has a solid cast of regulars. One patron kept calling for a "social smoke" out back in the parking lot, even though he got no takers. Undaunted, he passed by a pool table where a laid-back game seemed to take the better part of an hour.

By 6 p.m. the four elevated tables along the left-hand wall were filled with couples and young professionals. The bartenders were quick to recognize when I needed another drink and were glad to recommend something off the extensive beer list. I didn't realize how dim Swagger is until I stepped outside into the sunshine and found myself wincing.

click to enlarge The chili cheese fries are an indulgence that is worth it.
  • The chili cheese fries are an indulgence that is worth it.

The Food: The appetizers are oversized and easy to share. Chili cheese fries made with Flying Monkey chili are the standout. The fries are crisp and thick with a healthy slathering of chili and sour cream. The hummus plate has two enormous pyramids of Feta cheese, olives, cucumbers and tomatoes; this housemade plate could just as easily be at home at Tasso's down the street.

There's also a daily food special: Mondays, it's 50 cents wings; Tuesdays, $1 hard tacos; Wednesdays, more than a pound of crab legs ($14.99); Thursdays,

click to enlarge $1 taco night features ground beef, hard tacos -- nothing fancy, just simple, cheap eats.
  • $1 taco night features ground beef, hard tacos -- nothing fancy, just simple, cheap eats.
a 10 oz. hand-cut rib-eye or KC Strip with salad and potato ($13.99); and Friday is fried chicken ($6.95 lunch, $7.95 dinner). 

The Drinks: Domestic drafts and bottles are $2.50 and it's 75 cents off all other beers. Swagger has an extensive beer list, including Tallgrass Buffalo Sweat on tap and a full compliment of Boulevard beers. It's not on sale, but there's also a 10-year Sam Houston Bourbon. With its mild hints of toffee and vanilla, this is not a bad way to sip away the night. Whiskey drinkers should note that Swagger has a serious collection behind the bar.

The Plan: If it's just you, we recommend grabbing a seat at the bar. You'll find ready conversation partners on the stools next to you. The service is quick, meaning you could be in and out in an hour or you might just find yourself lingering in an attempt to finish a mountain of chili cheese fries. Smokers, there's a social smoke just waiting for you.

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