Thursday, August 12, 2010

No. 39: Flight of Freshness from Fresher Than Fresh Snow Cones

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 10:00 AM

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To whet your appetite for The Pitch's annual Best of Kansas City issue in October, we're counting down our favorite Top 50 dishes each weekday until October 7.

Sometimes you can't decide what you want to eat. And sometimes you don't have to decide. Fresher Than Fresh Snow Cones has met enough of the former customers to know that people needed help navigating the wild flavor combinations (I'm thinking about your sweet hotness, Pineapple Serrano) on the menu. Enter the Flight of Freshness, which allows eaters to pick five different sampler snow cone cups and try nearly all of the options each Sunday.

These snow cones are a step back to childhood in a setting that begs for a children's song. The white sampler cups emerge from a dutch door in a tiny Shasta teardrop trailer in a tiny garden at the corner of 17th and Summit. Only available on Sundays and First Fridays, the snow cones require you to make an effort to come find them. But the reward is better than the ending of any Grimm's fairy tale.

Tucked away in the garden, you can't hear the city, let alone the ice being shaved. The ice glistens momentarily before owner Lindsay Laricks or one of her employees tilts a clear glass bottle of infused syrup over the sampler cup.

The plate for the Flight of Freshness holds five of the eight flavors being offered on any given day. The espresso with Mexican cane sugar is a sweetened mule kick (get the condensed milk on top to discover why these are no ordinary snow cones) while the Green Tea Pear is a delicate antidote to summer. Always sample the Daredevil Special, which last Sunday was a gorgeous blood-orange flavor accompanied by a mellow sweetness that made me wish I could drink the syrup from the bottle.

So stop thinking about snow cones as red, white or blue orbs. Instead, discover the new, decadent face of snow cones.

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