to Torre's Pizza. (After Torre's, it was a couple of barbecue joints before becoming, most recently, Murphy's Pub.)
His daughter Alejandra came up with the
name after a recent visit to Galveston, Texas, where she saw a
restaurant with a similar name to Paparico's.
There's still some competition in this neighborhood, though: the popular Chelly's Cafe -- one of those independently owned cantinas with offbeat dishes that people either love or hate (a guacamole dip made with sour cream).
Like Chelly's, Martinez serves breakfast on weekends, from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. On the menu: menudo, pozole, breakfast burritos, breakfast tacos and breakfast quesadillas.
A gregarious host (he cooks, too), Martinez got a good deal on the location, which hasn't changed too much since he took it over (a couple of Mexican hats on the wall, a serape, few other decorative touches) and cleaned it up. Paparico's doesn't have a liquor license yet, so no Margaritas or a cold beer offsets the spicy dinners. (He says the license process is under way.)
Martinez also offers some unexpected choices on his menu: hot chicken wings, seasoned french fries, a Philly cheesesteak sandwich and a strawberry sundae for dessert.
"I want to give customers what they want," he says.