Friday, October 1, 2010

Fan's Tea and Dumplings opens in Overland Park

Posted by on Fri, Oct 1, 2010 at 3:26 PM

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Jennifer Fan serves great steamed dumplings
I received an e-mail from an old friend, Lucia, telling me about a new Chinese restaurant in Overland Park. She's crazy about the place, Fan's Tea and Dumpling Restaurant, but is concerned that the location isn't the greatest.

Now that I've actually eaten in Jennifer Fan's little restaurant, I'll be even more candid. The location -- a forlorn strip mall at 10400 Mastin -- is lousy.

 

Another restaurant made a game attempt in this location several years ago, the attractive Greek place Olympic Village Restaurant & Bar, operated by Anastasio Rodopoulos. He's the one who installed the snazzy, hand-laid granite floor that's still in the dining room today.

The dining room isn't as stylish under Jennifer Fan's ownership, but this veteran of Chinese restaurants -- her resume includes stints at China Star Buffet, Bo Lings and Andy's Wok -- is working hard to make a success of her namesake business.

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Pepper steak, anyone?
This restaurant's menu is limited to the traditional Chinese-American repertoire: General Tso's chicken, orange beef, pepper steak, Mongolian beef, moo goo gai pan. But everything is inexpensive and freshly prepared (without MSG), and the house specialty -- steamed dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables -- is very tasty.

There are a couple of oddball choices on the menu, including a dessert called "fried milk" ("Crispy on the outside and smooth and custardy inside," the menu promises) that's listed among the appetizers between chicken kebabs and crab rangoon. I would like to have tasted fried milk, but Fan informed me that even on slow nights -- you know, like when no one else is in the restaurant -- it must be ordered well in advance.

"Next time you come, you call me before you get in the car and we'll have it," she said.

House specialties -- including shrimp balls (who knew?) and chicken sauteed in honey-tomato sauce -- are served with a salad. There's a decent selection of hot teas, including the most fragrant jasmine brew I've ever tasted. It might be delicious with fried milk, if I can just remember to call in advance.

 

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