Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Chef Natasha Goellner, Part Three: The joy of baking macarons

Posted by on Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 3:10 PM

Theres a macaron for every color of the rainbow at Natashas Mulberry & Mott.
  • Facebook: Natasha's Mulberry & Mott
  • There's a macaron for every color of the rainbow at Natasha's Mulberry & Mott.
Asked about the best macaron she's ever eaten, Natasha Goellner pauses (not 20 feet from a colorful display of her own creations at Natasha's Mulberry & Mott) and smiles at the memory.

"It was a plain lemon macaron from Fauchon [the world-renowned Parisian gourmet food store]. It was really sour, in a good way," Goellner says.

The possibility offered by macarons is what brings her to work in the mornings at Mission Farms (as she explains after the jump). On Thursday, she talked about her first commercial kitchen in SubTropolis. On Friday, she laid out why Natasha's Mulberry & Mott is a cupcake-free zone.

“There isn’t anything I can think of where you can walk into a place and have 50 different flavors of that one thing,” Goellner says. “It’s completely different, and they change with the season, but they’re all the same.”

“The black currant is my favorite. We have one filled with lime curd that I love. But it’s something that somebody has to order and eat right away because it only lasts a few hours,” Goellner says.

All macarons are different, but she starts with a base of almond flour and confectioner’s sugar in the food processor. She then makes an Italian meringue (combining egg whites and cooked sugar). The dry ingredients are then folded into the meringue. The mixture is then piped out so the skin (the macaron’s exterior) can form.

According to Goellner, you have to keep a close eye on commercial ovens, which have a tendency to jump around in temperature. She keeps two thermometers in the oven window for just that purpose.

“They’re hard to make. They’re delicate. They’re the classic French cookie. They’re not really a cookie; they’re in their own league,” Goellner says.

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