The new product, which Elbow hinted at in The Pitch cover story about the opening of his new shop in Leawood this summer, is in both Glace locations (4535 West 119th Street and 4960 Main). At $4.31, the ice-cream treats are not cheap. But the latest innovation from Elbow — the first to truly marry his chocolates and ice cream — delivers strong flavors worthy of a fiver.
The vanilla bean — vanilla bean ice cream enrobed in dark chocolate — will be the most familiar. It's a standard in supermarket shops; however, Dove (or a comparable brand) has dulled your expectations. The vanilla pops out of this pop, finishing strongly after the first crackling bite of dark chocolate. The black cherry was the thickest ice-cream bar, the shell snapping off in big dense chunks. The almonds are the last thing you taste, and because they're toasted, they linger through your next bite. The black cherry inside had a rich, deep flavor that would appeal to lovers of red wine.The easy favorite among the panel of tasters was the fleur de sel with hazelnut croquant. Elbow's top-selling ice cream and chocolate flavor (fleur de sel caramel) is front and center in every bite. The coating is salty, adding a pleasant bit of crunchy texture to the ice cream. And in this bar, the ice cream isn't overshadowed; the chocolate and hazelnuts are complementary. It's as if someone turned a wonderful piece of brittle into ice cream.
All three are successful, meaning the bar for ice-cream bars has just been set a little higher.
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