Thursday, November 17, 2011

You want real maple syrup with those pancakes?

Why you're not going to find the real McCoy in the city.

Posted by Charles Ferruzza on Thu, Nov 17, 2011 at 2:04 PM

Real maple syrup comes from a tree, not the cornfield
  • flickr: jsorbieus
  • Real maple syrup comes from a tree, not the cornfield

The interesting thing about researching this week's Pitch Cafe feature about Kansas City's finest pancakes was the discovery that most area restaurants, even first-class restaurants like Chaz on the Plaza in the Raphael Hotel, don't use real maple syrup, but serve maple-flavored corn syrup.

Actually, in defense of Chaz, chef Charles d'Ablaing uses a 50-50 blend of real maple syrup and corn syrup, which tastes very close to the real thing. "The reason that most restaurants don't offer pure maple syrup," d'Ablaing says, "is the expense. The costs of pure Vermont maple syrup are now running between $50 to $80 a gallon."

"You can buy five times as much maple-flavored syrup these days as 1 gallon of pure syrup," chef Marshall Roth says. "It's all a matter of economy."

Interestingly, one of the last restaurants I expected to be serving real maple syrup was suggested by one of the commenters to this week's story: Commenter Celeste Lindell said Tennessee-based restaurant chain Cracker Barrel serves the real stuff. I was wary, but the manager of the Cracker Barrel at 7920 N.W. Tiffany Springs Pkwy. confirmed that the dining room uses pure maple syrup.

Who knew?

"I'd like to offer real maple syrup," says Beth Barden, chef-owner of Succotash, "but I'd have to charge extra for it, which, actually, I don't think some of my customers would mind."

Leslie Stoddard, the owner of the Classic Cookie in the Brookside-Waldo area doesn't even use maple-flavored syrup; she offers a butter-pecan blend instead.

So why is pure maple syrup so costly? It's a time-consuming process, beginning with tapping the maple trees for the sap, which is slowly drained into buckets, strained and boiled; it can take as much as 20 gallons of maple sap to reduce down to a single gallon of pure maple syrup.

If Cracker Barrel isn't exactly your cup of tea, there are a few locally owned restaurants that serve real maple syrup, including Webster House Restaurant, which offers the pure product during the Sunday-brunch hours.

  • Why you're not going to find the real McCoy in the city.

Comments (7)

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You Say Tomato DOES use real maple syrup, always has. An extra portion is 75 cents (with prices where they are now), and rarely have people balked at paying it. They would rather pay a little more for good quality products.

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Posted by Annie on 12/08/2011 at 8:23 AM

This is why I don't go out for pancakes.

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Posted by la bataleuse on 11/22/2011 at 9:38 AM

Sheraton on the Country Club Plaza uses real maple syrup for its room service and in its dining rooms.

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Posted by balbonis moleskine on 11/18/2011 at 3:40 PM

Doesn't You Say Tomato offer real maple syrup with their baked French toast? If I remember right, it only costs extra if you want extra syrup.

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Posted by Realist on 11/17/2011 at 9:14 PM

Biome: I wondered about that, although the manager at Cracker Barrel insisted it was pure maple syrup. And as for a restaurant offering real syrup for an upcharge -- I'd pay it in a hot minute. We're all eating too much of that damn corn syrup.

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Posted by Charles on 11/17/2011 at 6:12 PM

Blue Bird and Westside Local both serve real maple syrup. (As well you would expect them to)

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Posted by foodsnob on 11/17/2011 at 5:00 PM

Actually, Cracker has started serving a blend. It is a very good blend but not the same as the real thing. First watch in Kansas city is offering real maple syrup for an upcharge.
I think it is $1.25 and well worth it. DD

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Posted by BIOME on 11/17/2011 at 3:18 PM
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