Friday, December 16, 2011

Calling something Kansas City Barbecue does not make it so

Posted by Jonathan Bender on Fri, Dec 16, 2011 at 9:30 AM

The burnt ends at L.C.s are real KC barbecue.
  • Road Food
  • The burnt ends at L.C.'s are real KC barbecue.
We might as well change the name of this city to Tasty or Spicy, Missouri, because at this point, I'm not sure that Kansas City is going to mean much of anything for all that much longer. Mintek, a research firm fond of compiling lists that make for blog fodder, has identified five food-service trends for 2012, including this little nugget under American Regionalism:

Consumers are not only more aware of global cuisine, they are also more aware and interested in the regional specialties that define American cuisine. Whether it's Kansas City or Memphis barbecue, New England Chowder or Low Country grits, more consumers and restaurants are looking at the regions and cities in the US to identify the "Best of" cuisine.

The idea that eaters' awareness is growing is a new one, but the use of regional cuisine as a draw outside the region is, sadly, a well-established principle.

Whether it's Domino's trying to convince you that you need a Philly Cheesesteak pizza (you don't) or Subway having the audacity to sell pulled pork within our city limits, this is a shameless practice. The beauty of regional foods is that they're regional. The lobster at the Maine lobster shack tastes better because it is fresh and a genuine experience. The charm is rightfully lost when a limp crustacean shows up on a menu in Kansas City. This isn't just about eating local; it's about eating with some common sense.

I think I finally understand what citizens of Buffalo, New York, and Philadelphia go through on a daily basis. For years, they've had to watch their wings and cheesesteaks be bastardized on menus of pubs and sub chains. It's an epidemic, no different than knock-offs of high fashion. Only instead of getting a watch from some guy's coat or off a blanket on a street corner, you're scrolling your finger down a laminated menu. If only we could appoint some kind of board — it's a logical brand extension, Kansas City Barbeque Society — that might offer an independent seal of approval for a barbecue menu item labeled "Kansas City Barbecue" and sold outside the city limits.

We need to take back the words "Kansas City barbecue." Whether you want to call it the real food movement or civic involvement, it's time that we pursued a very different kind of smoking ban.

Comments (7)

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The best KC BBQ comes from a grill in a backyard, in the middle of the ghetto.

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Posted by Wink Dinklemeyer on 12/19/2011 at 11:35 AM

"Honest", you need to get your taste buds examined. KC BBQ is more heavily rubbed and smoked than any of the other "Big 4" styles, and is overflowing with flavor, with or without sauce. You have probably been to Rosedale and BB's a few times too many. Try LC's, any of the Smokestack/Jack Stack locations, Oklahoma Joe's, Gates or Bryant's if you want a taste of the real thing--or, better yet, stop by a random KC backyard on a Sunday evening. Most of us backyard smokers do more legit KC barbeque than the average restaurant.

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Posted by BBQ lover on 12/19/2011 at 11:28 AM

...it all started years ago when Mel Brooks filmed the scene in Blazing Saddles with all those guys singing and dancing around like a bunch of "Kansas City Faggots"........

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Posted by justthefactsmaam on 12/17/2011 at 5:46 AM

Kansas City BBQ sucks. It is pretty tasteless, and needs a lot of sauce to cover that fact up. So, if others use the term, no big loss. Maybe theirs will be better.

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Posted by honest on 12/16/2011 at 6:23 PM

I just rubbed one off to that picture.

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Posted by Oops. on 12/16/2011 at 1:45 PM

First, of course, you absolutely correct, in all aspects, of course, as we all know. Second, this is another of the many nightmares we also get from the big corporation, going coast to coast, if not around the world.

Great idea on the registration of true Kansas City bbq joints. Guess we'd better get started, eh?

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Posted by Mo Rage on 12/16/2011 at 11:59 AM

Luckily I don't see as much bastardization of the term "Kansas City Barbeque" like I do other regions. Carolina BBQ gets thrown around a lot. I know slaw on top of pulled pork is a Carolina tradition, but some places still use the term just for a pulled pork sandwich. Incorrect usage of Texas BBQ is frequent (usually used for dry brisket), as is Memphis (used as a prefix to mediocre chain Ribs).

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Posted by Abe on 12/16/2011 at 11:40 AM
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