Friday, January 13, 2012

Do we have unrealistic expectations for breweries?

Posted by on Fri, Jan 13, 2012 at 9:30 AM

Dogfish Head should be bigger.
  • Flickr: Bernt Rostad
  • Dogfish Head should be bigger.
The story of small breweries is that of indie rockers. The public loves them when they're small and "discoverable." But if they agree to go with a major label (distributor) and suddenly start becoming too mainstream, we're quick to suggest that they are not (and never will be) what they once were ...

It's a bit of a no-win situation, as Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione (his brewery is in the middle of a major expansion project) eloquently outlined in a recent BeerAdvocate thread about "the most overrated brewery." Calagione writes:

Flash forward to today, and true indie craft beer now has a still-tiny but growing marketshare of just over 5 percent. Yet so many folks that post here still spend their time knocking down breweries that dare to grow. It's like that old joke: "Nobody eats at that restaurant anymore, it's too crowded.” Except the "restaurants" that people shit on here aren't exactly juggernauts. In fact, aside from Boston Beer, none of them have anything even close to half of one percent marketshare. The more that retailers, distributors, and large industrial brewers consolidate the more fragile the current growth momentum of the craft segment becomes.

Is it the fear that the public won't appreciate a beer as you do, or is it that the potential sellout of the handcrafted approach, which made you fall in love with a brewery, leads to this growth backlash?

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