The taco to order is the cochinita pibil — slow-cooked pork shoulder marinated in orange juice and achiote seeds — which has a peppery kick to round out the sweetness of the juice. You'll be licking the rust-colored drippings off your fingers. Besides asada and barbacoa, there's also a pollo en mole, which was sold out on the busy Saturday night I dined there. The tacos are served with chopped onion and cilantro.
Ostrich-meat burritos are still in the works, but another Zavala family recipe — pescadilla, a fried fish taco that eats like an empanada — is made daily. Complimentary chips come with salsas in small plastic cups — the pineapple pico was the best of the lot with sweet chunks of pineapple and chopped jalapeno.
Fogones also serves beer ($2.50) and margaritas ($3.50). You can order ahead by calling 913-248-1242.