Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Fogones' Cochinita Pibil tacos are pork perfection

Posted By on Wed, Mar 7, 2012 at 12:34 PM

The cochinita pibil tacos are extraordinary.
  • The cochinita pibil tacos are extraordinary.
The first place that comes to mind if you're headed to the Kansas side for tacos is Kansas City, Kansas. But it might just be time for you to reprogram your GPS. Fogones Mexican Delights (11200 Johnson Drive) opened this past December in Shawnee, and the Zavala family's tacos (The Shawnee Dispatch recently ran a nice profile) are well worth the drive.

Fogones is worth the drive.
  • Fogones is worth the drive.
It's easy to miss the red sign only two doors down from Aunt Jean's ice-cream shop. At first glance, you might also dismiss the menu as the traditional coterie of burritos, quesadillas, tamales and tacos, and that would be a mistake.

The taco to order is the cochinita pibil — slow-cooked pork shoulder marinated in orange juice and achiote seeds — which has a peppery kick to round out the sweetness of the juice. You'll be licking the rust-colored drippings off your fingers. Besides asada and barbacoa, there's also a pollo en mole, which was sold out on the busy Saturday night I dined there. The tacos are served with chopped onion and cilantro.

Ostrich-meat burritos are still in the works, but another Zavala family recipe — pescadilla, a fried fish taco that eats like an empanada — is made daily. Complimentary chips come with salsas in small plastic cups — the pineapple pico was the best of the lot with sweet chunks of pineapple and chopped jalapeno.

Fogones also serves beer ($2.50) and margaritas ($3.50). You can order ahead by calling 913-248-1242.

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