Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Bonedog's BBQ has some cracking ribs in Smithville

Posted By on Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 9:30 AM

Ribs and rims are for sale in Smithville.
  • Ribs and rims are for sale in Smithville.
A plethora of barbecue in Kansas City renders the average man as soft as an overcooked pork butt. We tend to go on autopilot and head for the nearest smoker we know. But great barbecue demands effort; just ask any pitmaster worth his pig salt.

On the first day that I drove by Auto's Plus (112 N. Highway) in Smithville, I saw the smoke rising from the parking lot of the used-car lot and I did nothing. Heading back south, I learned that the smoke was coming from a black smoker in the right corner of the lot. And I saw a vinyl banner advertising Bonedogs BBQ stretched across the front of the building. It was then that I rolled down my window, inhaled deeply and pledged my fealty. I would return the next day. Barbecue being served out of a used-car lot is not a choice; it's a calling.

The ribs were tender and gone in a hurry.
  • The ribs were tender and gone in a hurry.

I arrived as a Wizard might arrive, which is to say late. And as a result, I was left with a choice of ribs or ribs. I can tell you that I was not shortchanged by this choice. After some mild guidance in the front office of Auto's Plus, I opted for beans over potato salad to accompany my double foil-wrapped ribs. The beans, while generously laden with tender shredded pork, were more agreeable than exemplary. Not too spicy. Not too sweet. More there than anything else. Although considering a forkful passed between the lips of nearly a dozen eaters with none dismissing them outright, perhaps the center is where more pitmasters should be aiming.

The straightforward beans also meant the ribs had a chance to shine. And like the clean picked bones that were left, they did. The ribs were well-trimmed with nice bark and a finish of sweet heat that had you thinking about your next bite before you were done chewing. It's easy to think pitmaster Scott Lamb has a food truck or barbecue shack in his future. Hopefully, he'll keep a picture of where he started to remind barbecue fans to always follow the smoke.

A rack of ribs will run you $20 and a pound of beans $5. If you want to throw on a 2003 Ford Ranger, it's another $8,950. Bonedogs also serves pork loin, brisket, pulled pork and potato salad. You can call in an order to 816-401-6558. It's cash only.

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