Imagine our surprise when we left the Midwest for New York, only to find that no Chinese restaurant there serves crab rangoon. We tried to explain it to our coastal friends: "It's like a fried wonton but with crab and cream cheese inside," we said. They looked at us with disdain. "That's Chinese?" they'd ask, then laugh. We told them tales of Kansas-based Chinese friends making the dish for us, but it was no use. Crab rangoon, we decided, was a flyover-state specialty. Red Snapper has upped the ante, replacing crab with smoked salmon for an appetizer that mingles our favorite flavors and textures at once: creamy, salty, fried and crunchy. The addition of what coastal types call lox makes this an appetizer that maybe, just maybe, they'll get to eat someday. Until then, we're not sharing.