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BEST BAKED BEANS 

All Slabbed Up

Critics' Choice

This roadhouse-style joint on the outer limits of Leavenworth takes appropriate pride in its baked beans, which come loaded with big chunks of smoked beef and can — quite rightly — be had as a mini-meal. The "Blazin' Saddles," a tribute to both the Mel Brooks film and the result of an overindulgence of beans, comes with corn chips as a starter, but sometimes we've made it the main event. "Eat a bowl of that, and people will know you're coming," one of the wiser waitresses told us once. True, but sometimes a crock of supple, well-seasoned, truly fine baked beans is worth sacrificing a little decorum.

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