Back at the turn of the last century, the Schloegel family sold coal for home heating stoves in Westport. By the 1950s, the family was selling wood — hickory, oak, apple and cherry — to the city's barbecue-pit owners out of a little frame house on Merriam Drive. The barbecue business began as an afterthought, when Frank Schloegel II started grilling meats and serving it to his friends and co-workers while he took wood orders over the phone. And that's how the little joint developed a reputation for quality barbecue even before it officially became a restaurant — a tiny one, with lots of carryout business — that's still mostly run by members of the Schloegel family. Whether you're eating in the itty-bitty dining room or on the pretty, shady brick patio, you'll get some superb smoked meats and chicken. When it's cool enough, the cooks start making chili topped with burnt ends. And this may be the only barbecue joint that doesn't serve fried anything. You can get a bag of chips with your sandwich or combo plate, but after that, it's just slaw, baked beans or cheesy corn.