Some say Jack Stack in the Crossroads' Freight House District is a barbecue aberration. The white tablecloths, the attentive waitstaff, the elegant bar — this couldn't possibly be barbecue, right? Well, yes, yes it is. Need proof? Order the burnt ends. Here, the traditional Kansas City dish isn't stuffy or formal but decadent. The bite-sized nuggets of beef, ham, pork and sausage come charred and crunchy outside, fall-apart tender inside. As your teeth meet the perfectly fatty morsels, you know you've found the delicious upper crust of local barbecue restaurants. This is a special-occasion meal that becomes a special occasion of its own, just because you've cultivated wisdom enough to order it again.