After working in some of Kansas City's best restaurants, Pete Peterman struck out on his own 16 months ago and turned a roughneck bar in the northland into a comfortable, unpretentious, dinner-only bistro that serves elegant (but not expensive) meals. Peterman's love of culinary creativity keeps him from offering a set menu, so his entrées change every night. Lately he has experimented with multicourse tasting menus, serving seven minicourses for less than $40, as well as with elaborate pre-fixe
dinners -- three courses for $23 -- to let customers, who happily travel from all points of the metro area, sample his skills. There are à la carte
choices, too, like the recent tender petite filet and seared scallops in a silky blue-cheese beurre blanc
. He's a burly kind of guy, too, for people who just don't trust skinny chefs.