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BEST CHINESE RESTAURANT 

ABC Café

Critics' Choice

Over the past two decades, Chinese restaurants have gotten more Americanized than ever. The décor is often inspired by Las Vegas, the cuisine by Disneyland. But for those of us who want authentic Cantonese cuisine, the tiny ABC Café in Overland Park is the real thing. Fast-paced servers don't waste a minute bringing out white-hot ceramic pots filled with unexpected treasures: fatty pork with preserved vegetables, perhaps, or bubbling mahogany gravy, and within its curry-scented depths, fork-tender beef and long-braised swaths of beef tendon. A plate of moist steamed chicken, blanketed in a unique oily sauce of preserved ginger and onion, can be eaten with rice or, for the more adventurous, deep-fried intestines. The 19 small dim sum choices — each less than $3 — range from the familiar (shrimp-fried wontons) to the deliciously exotic (fish-stuffed bean-curd skin, chicken feet in black-bean sauce) and are a terrific way to expand your palate without flattening your wallet.

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