Can we be honest? The chopped-cabbage concoction known as coleslaw is to barbecue what Chris O'Donnell is to acting: bland but inexplicably still around. No matter how upscale a barbecue joint might be, the mayo-heavy salad (the name comes from the Dutch koolsla, meaning "cabbage salad") invariably tastes like it was scooped out of a plastic pail from a big-box store. Why? Because at a lot of places, it is. But pitmaster Glenn Yeager, the owner and operator of the new Kansas City SmokeShack BBQ, has chosen not to treat coleslaw as just a way to cool off your palate between bites of spicy meat. His slaw is punched up with Ro-Tel, that beloved can of diced tomatoes and green peppers. It's a simple, smart move, and we wish he'd come along with it years ago.