The oily little buggers named Spicy Chili Pepper Wontons might as well be called "hot, meaty wads of sex," but they come in a vegetarian option as well. The key is the sauce, swimming with chili, garlic and spices. The dumplings bob around in this greatness, coated by a crisp dusting of green onion. We suspect that Blue Koi waiters have lost fingers trying to snatch away bowls of the stuff before they've been licked entirely clean. (We could eat orange traffic cones with this sauce poured over them.) The 39th Street establishment's other dumplings are just fine, if a little pale in comparison.