Jay Sherman, the movie-bashing, Jon Lovitz-voiced titular character of the '90s animated series
The Critic, loved his complimentary snacks. After addressing a clip from a horror film, he gorged himself on a studio-provided plate of ostensibly edible spiders, then watched the leftovers flee. "Edible spiders don't crawl.
Edible spiders don't crawl!" he bellowed in stunned realization. Well, the crunchy spider rolls at Matsu aren't going anywhere, and they're devoid of web-spinner content. These deep-fried soft-shell crab, surrounded by avocado, cucumber, Japanese carrots and kaiware sprouts, do have an unsettlingly arachnidian shape, though -- especially the two out of every batch that protrude like crooked legs from the circular rolls' centers.