Jay Sherman, the movie-bashing, Jon Lovitz-voiced titular character of the '90s animated series The Critic
, loved his complimentary snacks. After addressing a clip from a horror film, he gorged himself on a studio-provided plate of ostensibly edible spiders, then watched the leftovers flee. "Edible spiders don't crawl. Edible spiders don't crawl!
" he bellowed in stunned realization. Well, the crunchy spider rolls at Matsu aren't going anywhere, and they're devoid of web-spinner content. These deep-fried soft-shell crab, surrounded by avocado, cucumber, Japanese carrots and kaiware sprouts, do have an unsettlingly arachnidian shape, though -- especially the two out of every batch that protrude like crooked legs from the circular rolls' centers.