The fact that the new Sun Fresh just off Interstate 70 houses a tortillería doesn't just make the Minutemen weep. It suggests that the traditional groceries and carnicerías of Kansas City, Kansas, at last face some competition from the big stores. That shouldn't worry the patrons of Bonito Michoacan, the stand-alone carnicería, frutería and taquería at the top of the hill at 12th Street and Minnesota. As bright and clean as any Sun Fresh, but sporting a cockfighting mural, Bonito Michoacan is inescapably Latino yet also friendly enough even for uptight gringos. The store offers the cheap produce, Mexican Cokes and amusing Bimbo Snacks that you would expect, but it's the lunch counter that makes Bonito Michoacan worth the drive. Here are tacos you can't believe, perfect masterpieces of hot tastiness, as well as tortas, burritos and much else. A tip for those who speak only English: Eat at the counter, then ask someone for a check. And don't be shy about pointing when choosing your meats.