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BEST EXTRAVAGANT HAPPY HOUR 

Le Fou Frog

Critics' Choice

When we really want to feel the throes of anticipation and pleasure, we turn down all happy-hour invitations during the week and save our francs for a Friday-afternoon affair on the patio at Le Fou Frog. Beginning at 4:30 p.m. on Thursday and Friday, the River Market bistro offers specials on the indulgences we can never duplicate on our electric stoves — steamed Prince Edward Island mussels, braised duck legs, perfectly cut frites — and serves them alongside Kir Royale, glasses of crisp chardonnay and pints of Kronenbourg 1664. Charcuterie and fromage plates with delicate pâtés and soft, triple crème brie are good for sharing when we want to include a dining partner, but we really don't need anyone else to geek out with on this truncated culinary adventure through Gay Paree. The pleasure reaped from two hours on the patio with fresh raw oysters and a flute of champagne are enough for one.

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