The cheeseburger is an unhealthy food staple that inspires an appropriately unhealthy amount of debate among its enthusiasts. Smashburger, the Denver-based chain that arrived here this year, is no different. But we've eaten enough burgers to say it's a welcome addition to the strip malls of south suburban Kansas City. The thin-patty burgers don't stand up to the best locally produced meat slabs, but the beef is flavorful, the accompanying ingredients are fresh, and the burger's structural integrity withstands even the messiest eater's touch. The sides, thinly cut fries and deep-fried vegetables, are crispy and well-salted. The shakes are perfect in consistency. Service throughout the chain is generally fast and pleasant, too. And that's everything you need for a quick but delicious weekday dinner in the 'burbs.
