Only the happy-hour menu is available from 4 to 6 p.m. at this stylish West Bottoms bistro. "It gives the kitchen time to prep for dinner," says server Carly Swensen. But those small plates, priced from $3 to $7, have enough delicious things from chef and co-owner Wes Gartner's kitchen to qualify as one of the best bargains in town. Gartner changes the menu based on the fresh produce he gets that week. When a local farmer recently dropped off a bushel of fresh okra, he created a starter of fried okra under a spicy, crispy cornmeal crust and served it with rémoulade. There are constants, too. Vietnamese chicken wings and fat sticks of fried yuca root go down easy, and you can feel good about that extra drink when you're also eating root-vegetable chips with a roasted-shallot-and-gorgonzola dip.