Hands across OP! Way out south, Paradise India offers a crave-satisfying buffet in a delightful atmosphere. The voyage begins tentatively with truck-stop chai-tea service (orange Igloo, Styrofoam cups) and a homely salad bar. But those missteps begin to feel miles away after a taste of mouth-melting rice crepes or naan with fiery relish. In addition to standards such as goat and chicken tikki masala, the cooks prepare tantalizing vegetarian dishes centered on eggplant, okra and green peppers. Servers in black neckties attend to customers in the soothing burgundy-and-cream dining room. Taking up where the décor leaves off, owner Yogi Gupta asks patrons about the quality of their meals with attentiveness that a good shrink might envy.
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