No, you don't have to be a high roller to enjoy the meat at the dark, quiet steakhouse inside the bustling Harrah's Casino, although high rollers do often eat there -- using their comp credits. For the nongambling contingent, the 16-ounce, traditional-cut Kansas City strip isn't just tender and loaded with flavor. It's a pretty good deal, too. Unlike the snootier steak palaces around town, the Range includes a Caesar or a trip to the well-stocked salad bar and two side dishes (baked potato, steamed asparagus, sauteed baby spinach, gruyere potatoes au gratin) with the cost of this steak (about $30). There's also good service, stiff cocktails and delicious desserts, which add up to a winning combination. The dining room is far enough from the casino floor that patrons don't hear all the bells and whistles from the slot machines but close enough to be a siren's lure once you step out of the Range and into the bright lights at the casino entrance. What you stake at the gaming tables is a completely different story.
Starts: Jan. 14. Daily, 2009