The meatball sub is pretty simple: bread, red sauce, a white cheese and, of course, meatballs. It is so simple, in fact, that no one thinks twice before ordering one from a dingy Subway or some airport vendor. We've let our expectations fall too low, is what we're saying. Here's how we raised them again: We ate a meatball sub at Pandolfi's. At this great Columbus Park deli, the sandwich is tight, layered, perfectly proportioned. Lean meatballs loll in herby tomato sauce, with mozzarella and romano adding exactly the right salty sharpness. The bread is crusty on the surface, chewy and absorbent in the middle. We'd say you should order just half a sandwich for lunch, but no. When life lets you hold triumph in your hands, you fill your hands with the whole damn sandwich.