Raytown, stereotyped as the essence of white, middle-class America, may seem an unlikely community to find a great Mexican restaurant, but Andres Orozco saw a niche and filled it. And then some: Fiesta Azteca's tiny dining room is nearly bursting with Mexican flags, streamers, banners, beer novelties, sombreros and serapes. Once a table — and there aren't that many — becomes available, the feasting can begin in earnest. Orozco serves potent margaritas. (He insists that his house cocktail, a simple blend of ice, fresh lime juice, Triple Sec and tequila, is the best in town; after a couple of sips, most of his customers appear to woozily agree.) And he likes it when customers let him take charge of the ordering. He disdains tacos and burritos and enjoys seeing patrons dine on more cosmopolitan fare: pork medallions in a sexy poblano cream sauce or grilled pollo in a garlic-cilantro sauce. Of course, there are tacos and burritos — including a $25 giant burrito — and all those traditional Tex-Mex favorites, and Orozco won't be heartbroken if he doesn't get to order for you. But you'll get a more memorable meal if you let him.
