Best New Restaurant
Café Trocadero
Amazingly, there are culinary sophisticates who still haven't stumbled into restaurateur Chris Sefreyn's tribute to metropolitan boîtes, where there's no gimmick other than divinely inspired food and tastefully appointed décor. The space that housed the R.T.'s Deli has been given a high-gloss makeover (complete with shiny new cherry flooring and a new blond-wood bar), and chef Jason Bowers has created a menu that's not only elegant and delicious but also reasonably priced. The signature dishes, thus far, have been golden mountain trout crusted with spiced pecans and sautéed in a fragrant brown butter sauce, and a flaky potpie practically bursting with full-bodied mushrooms. The temptation to eat too much of everything is almost overwhelming, but disciplined diners will save room for the chef d'oeuvre of the dessert list: frozen cashew brittle glace. It's the confectionary version of very, very good sex.
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